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Savile Row Bespoke

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March 2020

Now is a great time to order bespoke shirts so here are the thoughts on summer shirt cloths by Dege & Skinner’s Head Bespoke Shirt-Cutter, Tom Bradbury:

“As summer approaches and temperatures start to creep up one of my favourite shirt fabrics to wear to work would have to be a linen and cotton blend. The blended cotton/linen thread count means less creasing than say 100% pure linen, making it the perfect summer dress shirt.

Being a cotton linen blend also gives the look of having a muted slub, adding character to what otherwise would be a standard business shirt. Manufacturers have caught on to this popular trend, offering numerous colour options and unusual patterns, my favourite being ‘Zephirlino’ by Alumo of Switzerland (stripes seen here), a wonderful Egyptian cotton blended with French linen. Worn underneath a lighter weight suit along with a tie and you’ve created a simple and effective solution to keeping cool at work during the summer months.

For a traditional, classic, but somewhat forgotten about shirt cloth, try a voile, again very much to be worn with a suit. Being such a fine fabric, it’s extremely cool to wear, giving what I would describe as a ‘silk moire’ effect. To lessen the cloth transparency we use a ‘double front’ with single layers elsewhere on the shirt, thereby retaining its overall lightness. This was a very popular look back in the day when no respecting man would have taken his jacket off and most men still wore a waistcoat, all year round and I believe this modern take on a truly classic style of shirt could well become a firm favourite once again.

For a more casual summer look the obvious shirt choice would be a linen, but of course not everyone likes the creased linen look so I’d suggest a seersucker as an alternative. Such an easy casual shirt to wear and its ripple design means to feels like it’s floating over your body so when you sweat the cloth doesn’t stick to your skin.

Of course a shorter tail is always a good option to give you the option of wearing the shirt un-tucked from trousers or summer shorts.

Collar wise for summer, and there are more than 50 recognised collar styles, there’s the button down or even a lido or camp styles, which allow the shirt front to be worn relatively open, helping to keep the wearer cool, yet stylish.”

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