Bespoke Tailoring Process

Firstly, we’ll discuss where and how the clothing will be worn to help us select the best fabric bunches for whatever you wish to have made. This meeting can take place at our Savile Row shop, at your home, office or during one of our trunk shows.

Secondly, we’ll take your measurements. Approximately 35 measures and figuration notes, as well as photographs are taken.

Using all of the information gathered during our meeting a unique personal paper pattern is then constructed by your cutter.

One cutter is dedicated to each individual customer and is responsible for overseeing the entire making process, from the initial consultation to the delivery of the finished garments.

Your paper pattern, personal measurements and full details of all your orders are available to view at any subsequent appointments. Viewing these will give you a rare insight into a normally unseen part of the bespoke tailoring process.

Your own highly skilled cutter will work closely with his or her specialist coat maker, trouser maker and waistcoat maker to create exactly what each customer might desire.

Once all parts of the paper pattern are complete they’re laid onto the cloth you chose, then drawn around using tailoring chalk. Cutting along these chalk lines using large tailoring shears, we create the individual panels of each garment.

At this stage all the internal canvases, lining and other components such as fixings and fasteners are selected and ‘bundled’ together in the cutting room.

This ‘bundle’ is now ready for one of our specialist in-house tailors to sew together for what is known as a ‘baste fitting’. This work is done in our modern workroom, located underneath the shop.

At the first baste fitting you’ll try the garments on. This enables your cutter to analyse the fit, balance, size and shape, based on the original measures taken for the construction of paper pattern. All parts of this process are discussed to help you get a sense of how the clothes are going to look once the agreed alterations have been made.

Your unique fitting notes and paper pattern are then adjusted accordingly using the information gathered and the chalk marks made during this baste fitting.

The tried-on garments are taken apart and flattened again. Then the adjusted paper pattern is used to make adjustments to the original pattern.

At this stage, garments are returned to the workshop and taken to a further stage of completion with hand-sewing of the linings, pockets and much of the internal details.

Our team of ‘makers’ are specialists. They each train in either coat-making, trouser-making or waistcoat making, taking between two and six years to become fully trained, depending on the discipline they chose to learn.