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When asked about our 'House Style', Head Cutter Nicholas De’Ath said: “Our company’s undisputed heritage in the creation of military uniforms continues to inform the basis of all our bespoke tailoring and probably always will.
But, like any artisan if we’re to continue to be successful for the next 150 years we have to be fast adapting and innovative, evolving with the tastes of our treasured customers, wherever they are in the world.
During the recent lockdowns and with ongoing travel restrictions, we've certainly noticed a trend for more diverse styles in the bespoke orders being placed with us.``
In the words of Simon Crompton from Permanent Style, a global authority on classic and luxury menswear: 'It is a fairly strong-shouldered, structured look. They don't do many one-button jackets though, preferring to keep that for dinner suits.
Most single-breasted jackets are two button, with a ‘true’ (no roll) three button for more casual, country pieces. Not much drape in the chest, and not much flare to the skirt. The lapel has a touch of belly. There is little rope to the shoulder. And the cuffs normally have two working and two show buttonholes.
Dege’s overall look is clean and close, much influenced by the range of military tailoring the house does (which all the cutters are trained in).” Credit: Permanent Style
So if this is the Dege & Skinner ‘House Style’ and the bespoke team can make anything, what influences the Cutters personally?
Head Cutter Nicholas De'Ath, who celebrates his 25th year in bespoke tailoring this year said: ``15 years ago I bought a Vivienne Westwood coat for my wife. It’s construction was in two halves, with a leg of mutton sleeve. Very technically strong in its construction and it still wears well! It's standout, one-off investment pieces like that which tend to influence and interest me the most.
In-house here at Dege & Skinner we have the skills to create some of the finest tailoring detailing in the world so relish the opportunity to showcase everything that’s possible with Dege & Skinner bespoke tailoring and shirt-making.”
Under Cutter Alex Hills, who joined the company as an apprentice coat maker in 2013 aged 19, is extremely passionate about vintage menswear in particular. ``Well, I’m fascinated with the 1920s-40s so I read a lot of literature. Evelyn Waugh and P.G.Wodehouse novels are among my favourites. As a result, a lot of my style inspiration comes from British University fashions of the interwar era.
I spend a lot of time looking at pictures of Oxford/Cambridge undergraduates from the 1930s. Most manage to wear tailoring in such a dressed down, natural way. Lots of sports jackets and flannels. In my opinion it’s effortlessly cool and quintessentially British.”
Joe Holsgrove, Under Cutter and winner of the 'Golden Shears' in 2015, is reinforcing the Dege & Skinner tradition of following family into the bespoke tailoring trade.
``My grandfather, George Holsgrove, worked for Kilgour, French and Stanbury during its heyday between the 1950s and 70s. His fond memories of his time in the trade, and his lasting friendship with Edward Sexton initially inspired me to spend time in tailoring and it still drives my passion for beautifully crafted garments.
Their timelessly elegant personal styles continue to influence my own dress sense and outlook of menswear, as well as that of the late HRH Prince Philip the Duke Of Edinburgh.”
